Our hotel concierge originally booked us at a place we didn’t enjoy enough when we ate there about four years ago to want to eat there again, so we asked her to re-book, elsewhere. Saturday night anywhere really good, anywhere in the known universe, is a tough table but One may legitimately ask, “Why not give a place a second chance after four years?” The answer was supplied by Malcolm Forbes when he was asked why his oenological choices were so expensive, “Life’s too short to drink bad wine.” Life is to short to willingly repeat an unpleasant experience. I refuse to write about bad meals because that only causes them to repeat, sometimes in my gut and sometimes in my limited cranial spaces – I simply go on (bravely) to the next repast. Pauline came through with flying colors.

Tonight we dined at Fontaine de Mars, a red and white checkered table cloth establishment in the 7^th Arrondissement, not far from the Ecole Militaire, the Eiffel Tower and the Champs des Mars from which the Fontaine must draw its name. A moment for history – Champs des Mars translates into English as the Fields of Mars (the Roman god of War). It was originally the field on which tournaments were held by the King so that French knights could demonstate their prowess in the arts of war. Unlike today’s sporting contests, the losers frequently went home in a box – making participation a definite hazard to one’s health. Now the only dangers at the Champs des Mars are extravagant prices and food poisoning. Rest assured gentle reader, neither is a threat at Fontaine de Mars.

We were ushered to a lovely corner table on the second floor of a typical looking bistro/cafe and into a different world. The winelist is split between “Les Vins de Bordeaux” and on a separate list, Others. The list of Bordeaux is concise and nicely arranged by appellation, cru and vintage. It is priced fairly but gives no quarter to bargain seekers. I lusted after a 2005 Pomerol from a good home, until the moment I realized the dollar price was into four digits to the left of the decimal. Instead the 2012 Telegramme, a Chateauneuf du Pape, from the list allowed us to both enjoy its robust (14.5% alcohol) flavors, dark fruits and a I think a touch of clove and earth, and its modest price. It was chosen to pair with the plat du jour, of which more momentarily.

MiLady began, as is her custom at this season in France, with the white asparagus. The portion was five huge stalks, steamed and presented with a mousseline which was very lightly tinted by red bell pepper and even more delicately flavored. I had the escargot – six plump little morsels very gently flavored with herbs and butter, but no garlic, served Swiss-style in a ceramic dish with a little spot for each snail and its liquor. I first saw snails served this way in Lucerne at Mövenpick almost half a century ago – it saves on kitchen prep time (someone has to stuff the little devils into the shells) and saves the eater embarrassment when s/he loses control of the clamp. (Remember the very funny scene in “Pretty Woman” when Julia Roberts inadvertently launches a snail missile at the stuffy waiter?)

We moved on, with both contentment and sadness to the plat du jour. Saturday night Fontaine de Mars features a sublime slice from a perfectly roasted loin of lamb. The slice is about 2 centimeters thick (roughly 3/4 of an inch), the circumference of a good apple, and weighs about 200 grams (between 5 and 6 ounces). It is so perfect that it is accompanied only by a single roasted clove of garlic and potatoes Dauphinoise. Balanced with the Chateauneuf it was an exquisitely simple and incredibly satisfying meal. Mind you, not so satisfying that we were able to resist ordering, and then devastating, a dark (the menu, in one of its extremely few translation mis-steps called it “black”) chocolate mousse. We finished with nicely prepared decaf cappucinos, paid our modest check and departed – happier for the dining experience.