We arrived in the City of Light on the TVG from Bordeaux early this evening. The trip was smooth and uneventful, allowing me to transcribe my notes from yesterday’s vineyard visitation (posted under “Wining in Bordeaux”) and grab a little nap. (The nap was delicious, but a bit hairy nonetheless.) We walked from the Gare Montparnasse to our room at the Victoria Palace hotel – despite my pleas to simply take the TARDIS from the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux and avoid any reliance on other forms of temporal transition. I hate moving luggage, and because I am the biggest and strongest member of our party, its always my job.
Paris is glorious! Our hotel room is beautiful – and Milady had the foresight to reserve a table at one of my favorite restaurants. Restaurant Josephine “Chez Dumonet” on the Rue de Cherche-Midi in the 6th arrondissement, makes the finest boeuf bourgeon in the world. Better than Murghk’s, better than anyone’s, and portion sizes that would satisfy a French-Canadian lumberjack coming off a hunger-strike. “Chez Josephine” as it is colloquially known, is a quintessential Parisian restaurant. A single store front wide, it has a little bar in the front, a room seating no more than 25 or 30, and a chef who produces bourgeois cuisine better than anyone else in Paris (and perhaps the whole world).
The restaurant staggers its reserved (yes – you really need a reservation, even on Wednesday night) seatings. We asked for 8PM and were offered 7:30, which we gratefully accepted. We arrived promptly and were seated at our favorite table, at the back of the room and against the wall. The owner/maitre d’/husband of the chef served us a glass of the house white wine moments after we were seated. The waiter brought crusty, dense bread and fresh sweet butter moments after that. Then the carte des vins and menus followed in due course. Taking our cue from Charles (at Orchids in Cincinnati) we ordered a 2011 Chinon from the modest and very carefully vetted wine list. Chez Dumonet clearly takes pride in its offerings and the wine list is focused on values rather than show labels – but quality comes at an ever increasing price, so be forewarned.
This was our fifth visit, so we’ve finally learned to share the starter, the main course and the dessert. The special was white aspargus with a tomato-scented hollandaise and was out of this world. Big, thick white asparagus stalks simmered to tenderness and served warm with the sauce on the side was a great way to begin the meal. This was followed by the world’s best bourgeon – large tender chunks of excellent beef simmered in red wine and mushrooms until the beef is so tender it can collapse off one’s fork, leaving a gravy blot on one’s clean shirt. No matter – a good laundress can make it disappear, but you will never forget the flavor; rich beefiness with a hint of salt and a satisfying density. Dessert was a perfectly prepared souffle (which you must remember to order with your main course) with a touch of Gran Marnier. The sharp orange of the liquor contrasting brilliantly with the sugar and egg whites of the crust.
We left contented – and with enough left in our purse to fund another day here, the tariff being moderate by local standards.