After a while it became apparent that the hatchling couldn’t be counted on as a regular dinner companion during this vacation, his usual good nature clouded by strange surroundings and displaced by several time zones. To console ourselves, Milady (and the human male) and I decided that we needed to find a place which catered solely to grownups. We hoped that a dining establishment unencumbered by a need include keikei-friendly foods would also be a sanctuary in which we could momentarily indulge our food fantasies. The engaging concierge in whom we confided our desires suggested we take a modest stroll along the oceanside walkway and present ourselves at Nick’s (where he made the necessary reservations).
Nick’s Fishmarket is located at The Fairmont. The restaurant is on a terrace overlooking the ocean and on the night we dined there, the breeze was gentle, the sky star-filled, and the dining a memorable experience. The tables were well-occupied when we arrived at the fashionable hour of 7:45PM and we were shown to a very pleasant spot immediately. I am more than a little leery when a cheery, enthusiastic, incredibly young-looking server chirps, “Hi, my name is Ti and I’ll be taking care of you this evening.” In my experience, bubbly waiters and serious culinary endeavors are rarely found in the same establishments, but we accepted the menus and wine list anyway, as Ti offered to bring us “something from the bar.”
As many of you know, we frequently eschew harder spirits in favor of a better bottle of the vintner’s art – and that I frequently express despair at the escalating prices of indulging in oenophilic pursuits. Nick’s wine-list is extensive and expensive. A dearth of two digit bottles, an expanse of three digits offerings, and some even more expense items gave even me pause. Happily, a 2009 burgundy from Joseph Drouhin’s Cote de Nuits selection was reasonably priced. We’ve enjoyed Drouhin wines before, from both the original French vineyard and the newer Oregon one, so we had some idea of what we were requesting. Ti seemed happy with our choice, and returned with the bottle almost immediately. Opened and allowed to breathe for a few minutes, the wine was the first indication that Nick’s is a very serious restaurant. The burgundy was a serious wine – initially austere and a bit distant, but after a few minutes it metamorphosed. It became approachably complex and very satisfying with notes of licorice, cassis and earth, and a very long finish.
Milady believes that starting with a good salad is not only healthy, but gives a hint about the care the kitchen exercises in its choice of fresh ingredients. A wimpy lettuce leaf can portend a wimpy entree. The roasted beet, toasted goat cheese, arugala and frisee with a light vinaigrette really woke up the tastebuds – and noting that I had not ordered an appetizer, a second, empty plate was provided to facilitate sharing. Ti suggested Milady check out the Monchong, a firm white-fleshed local red snapper, as it was his favorite. The kid has good taste – the fish was nicely plated and Milady enjoyed every mildly flavored bite along with a surprising spaetzle side. I ordered the rack of New Zealand lamb medium rare, over a bed of local Hawaiian sweet potatoes, with a pineapple/mint preserve. The rack was sliced into individual chops (SIX!! of them) which were presented in a spiral around the sweet potatoes. It was among the very best preparations of rack of lamb I have ever enjoyed. The meat was flavorful, tender and cooked to perfection with a nice exterior crust and exactly medium rare.
Service was crisp, but achieved with an interesting twist. While Ti was our “lead” waiter, others and I don’t mean busboys or the like, were also assigned to our table. Whenever our wineglasses looked like a refill was in order, a waiter appeared and poured. When we were finished, our plates were cleared promptly and a dessert menu placed in our talons before even a moment passed. But what was most astounding, and gratifying, was that all of this happened while the table next to us, filled with hedge fund managers and their significant others, was running up a tab similar to the entire budget of a third world country, we never felt we weren’t receiving equally attentive service. Bravo Nick’s staff.
Milady and I shared a Chocolate Decandence with the paired Fonseca Port for dessert. It was everything we hoped and feared it would be. The Chocolate Decadence is an assemblage of milk chocolate mousse, toasted almonds and a ganache to die for with sponge cake that soaks up the flavors and delivers them to the tongue. SLURP! Ti and friends again recognized sharing as a legitimate method of dining, and while providing a plate for half the Decadence was appreciated, it was especially nice to receive the port in two glasses.
In all, perhaps the best meal we ate on Maui, and a fitting final dinner – despite the absence of the hatchling.