First impression – July 2012

I accompanied the humans to dinner last night at La Panetiere in Rye and left completely satisfied.
The room is lovely – uncrowded with a really nice yellow and golden tone to it. The chairs are comfortable enough, though some seem to need reupholstering to keep humans with larger posteriors from coming in contact with the frame. The maitre d’ was welcoming, not at all the epitome of French head waiter snobbiness I feared, and actually smiled when he complimented the humans on their choices. And just what were those choices, I hear you ask.

To begin, Milady had a “mikado” of warm, tender green and white asparagus. The “mikado” being juicy sections of grapefruit and a bit of frisee. The combination silken texture and citric bite was delicious and a perfect way to get ready for the rest of the meal.
The male had les escargots Provencal. Unlike the typical bourgeon preparation of garlic and butter, these snails were nestled in a puree of vegetables and topped with a fragrant tomato puree. Sigh.

Milady departed from her usual entree choices and had a delightful breast o f duck – sliced and plated with lentils and oyster mushrooms. The interplay between the rich duck meat and delicate mushrooms was like having your tastebuds exposed to flashing lights – contrasts of taste and texture making for a wonderful dish.

The other entree was soft-shell crabs in the style of Grenoble. No breading o r frying or sautéing in butter – rather a bit of olive oil in a very hot pan so the shells were just on the verge of crispness, and a bit of this and that topping the crabs, with a fragrant puree of green beans. Again, a dish where the contrasts made each of the very fine ingredients stand out but harmonize. Slurp.
The wine was an elegant 2007 Chateau La Tour Carnet. While classified as a Quatrièmes Crus in the arcane (and archaic) 1855 system, the wine was outstanding. The restaurant specializes in Bordeaux classifications, and has an incredible list, but don’t go bargain hunting – there aren’t any. On the other hand, just reading the list can give one hours of enjoyment.

The meal finished with a chocolate tasting selection – Napolean, white chocolate sorbet and ganache – Milady chose a homemade chocolate ice cream which was among the best ever tasted. Then, realizing it was Milady’s birthday, a beautiful marzipan plaque with “Happy Birthday” drizzled on it in melted chocolate , was presented. The decaffeinated Sumatra coffee was almost an anti-climax. Smooth, with almost no acidity, it complimented the smooth, sensuous nature of the entire experience.
Rave, rave, rave.

Return Engagement – October 2012

Let me start with a disclaimer: I am not now, nor have I ever been, a bargain-obsessed couponer. Still, when La Panetiere offered a Groupon dinner for 4 worth $370 for less than half, I began an immediate search for dining companions.
Sitting through a meal with four humans can be trying, especially with a special, limited menu (the Groupon Gourmet Tour Gastronomic) but WOW! The evening got off to a good start when the hostess noticed that our reservation was made through Groupon. She asked for the coupon and that was that. I love a restaurant that handles all the details and has the confidence to book tables only once an evening. No one ever hurries the diners, because there isn’t another couple waiting for the table. “Une autre tasse du cafe, madame?” not the as yet unrequested l’addition and a calculating stare.

As we were seated the maitre d’, who doubles as the sommelier, asked whether we preferred our included bottle to be red or white. We chose red and received a good, very serviceable 2009 Tisdale California cabernet sauvignon. Little cheese puff amuse bouches miraculously appeared, and the house-baked petit pains (olive, tomato or plain) were proffered. In best French fashion, a huge tub of fresh sweet butter was deposited as well. A little sip of wine and we were off to a very good start.
So, the meal began with a choice of salad or soup. The salad was a beautiful seasonal one, with just the right mix of frisee, red lettuce, a chickpea or two, a bit of cucumber and onion and dressed with a very light citrus vinaigrette. The soup was a two-in-one: a soup plate with half tomato bisque and half with a creamy corn chowder. Sitting side-by-side it looked yummy, a nice visual yin-yang to the soup course.

The shared appetizer course is one of the differences between the full on menu and the Groupon offerings. Still, when the escargot are served in little pastry pillows, one scarcely notices that the portion is shared – until it’s all gone all too quickly.
My humans both chose venison as their main course. Silky textured, slightly sweet as venison should be, grilled medium rare and sitting next to incredibly delicious red cabbage. A bite of one then the other made my mouth as happy as the time I ate a whole knight en brochette with a tun of wine. Speaking of wine, the humans went off the reservation on the second bottle (most definitely not included under Groupon). I think I understated the quality of the cellar last time. We drank a 2005 Bernadotte – once touted by Sherry-Lehman as one of their “unsung heroes of Bordeaux” right up until it was all sold out…The wine blossomed with the venison, exploding in the mouth with just the right balance of acidity and sweetness, and leaving me wishing the humans would take me here more often. The other couple ordered, IMHO, lesser dishes. The filets mignonettes of beef were perfectly cooked, beautifully presented, tasty, but really exciting. Safe, comfortable and familiar – which come to think of it is a very nice recommendation. The veal shank was much more interesting. Cooked to perfection, the fragrant veal sliding off the bone at the touch of the fork – ah, sigh – so good it’s hard to remember not to embarrass my fellow diners by picking it up in both hands to get at the really good parts…
Are we up to dessert already? La Panetiere does wonderful soufflés – and a very nice nougatine as well. Groupon eaters share one dessert per couple, and that great coffee is a la carte – but absolutely nothing can dim a fabulous meal, especially when one is paying something less than half price. (Just remember the staff who made it all happen- my understanding is that the gratuity should be based on the value of the meal, not the net amount paid after coupons and comps. That way they’re happy to see you return).
Rave,rave,rave redux.